LamineKouyate, better known under the nameof his labelXulyBëtisa fashion designerapart.Longthe darlingof Parisian fashioninthe 90s,his creations aremarked withthe imprint ofcontemporaryAfrica, theflamboyantand inspirationaltextiles.Guestof honor at theBlackFashionWeek, hismany fanshave seenwithgreat joyin early October, at the openingof theBlackFashionWeek, acolorful processionatPavillonCambonCapucinein Paris.Interview.
Introduce yourself ? LamineKouyate ?
XULY.Bët, “the big eyeopen to the world.” I have very fewwords tomedefinemyself,I‘m too old issues of identity, this expressionin Wolofin the textexpressesa whole partof my person, I find it very meaningful, it has little equivalent inother languages. So, tointroduce myself, say XULY.Bët.
You seem to haveturned the cornerin terms ofbusiness strategy: a website,a weekend ofdirect salesper monthyour showroom…Isthis positioning issufficienttoday ?
The realcurrent strategyis tooccupy the spaceof the Net,to the extent thatsalesin the workshop,we practicesince we started, because it corresponds tothe desireof sharing thathas always drivenme.These salesallowmeto make senseandhuman vitalityto myworkplaceas a place ofappointmentopento friends,relatives,fans of the brand, artists andvisiting celebrities.
Do you thinkone daybe able to createworkshops andproduction unitson the Africancontinent ?
I’m working on. Moreover, forthe moment, Iamin the process ofdeveloping aDakar.Wealreadyreleased a fewprototypes.I‘ll talk when it’sreallyon track.
How do you explainthat Africaninvestors to becautiousin terms of fashion, while worldwide, businessmenunderstand thatfashion can begeneratingrevenue ?
Long, textiles in Africa wasa matter for states, it was a protected area,source of jobs, of course, butfailed tomeet thenewchallenges.Today, competition is fierceandthe necessary investmentsare becomingheavierto accessglobal markets.In thecase of Africa, it should, in the first instance, takethe regional marketwith averageunits.Thiscan be very profitable, provided the necessary skillsto gatherand findfinancial support.
A few words aboutthe collection presentedat the opening ofthe 3rd edition oftheBlack FashionWeek ?
I am trying totrace apaththat carries thevitalityof modern Africa, I have implemented thisbrilliancefoundin the colors, fabrics, makeup, but alsoin goldthat womenwearon myrange ofgrounds, includingXBmonogram,compositionfromthe typographicalcharterXULY.Bët. It was also shownthatsome samplescollectionsarecurrentlyknitted.
Is itnotagainst-productive to organizea fashion showwithexclusivelyof African descentsothat fashion isuniversalcreators ?
All roadsdo not lead toRome, sometimes you takeshort cuts, because thereis no realfootsteps.
To count, it must occupy the landandpragmatismindevelopinghis world,this is wherethe genius ofAdamaParisandBlackFashion Week.